The new adventure unfolding before me was so exciting that I totally forgot I’d been up the entire night.  No tiredness was evident, just joy and awe.  In Western New York the predominant color is green and the sky is often cloudy.  Riding through this semi-arid part of the country everything is tan and the huge bowl of sky above is the deepest blue I can imagine.  The Black Hills were still a couple of hundred miles ahead but the passing undulating landscape of this prairie was very unique to me.  I found it interesting and beautiful.   I didn’t even mind the Wall Drug Signs, the billboards advertising Murdo’s car museum and the Gutzon Borglum story.  As a stranger in this strange land everything was fresh and new.

I believe that dry air is softer than humid air.  I’ve ridden without a windshield in Florida at highway speeds and the wind is like a brick wall.  In South Dakota you can exceed 80 miles an hour without feeling like your face is breaking through some kind of barrier.  These wide open spaces with their distant horizons make it so easy to ride faster and with less push from the wind the bike feels stronger.  I also believe in 8 over when it comes to speed limits.  I’ve never been stopped while keeping to that threshold even though I’ve passed many standing state trouper vehicles while I was in excess of the posted maximum.  Out there with the speed limit at 75 in an encouraging environment you can really eat up the miles.

It was mid-morning when I passed Kadoka, South Dakota.  If you’ve ever been through this part of the country you’ll understand the meaning of “A whole lot of nothing”.  It’s only a 40 mile stretch but there is nothing between Kadoka and Wall that you would call a town.  With almost no trees, buildings or people for mile after mile it seemed easier to get that feeling of being one with the environment when it is so uncomplicated and serene.  I was enjoying the ride but then noticed there was another road that seemed to be following along the south side of the interstate.  If I decided to switch over I’d be taking a chance.  That road could decide to head for nowhere and I’d have to double back to the interstate.  But wasn’t this whole excursion about taking chances and living life?  If I was going to be true to my nature I had to get onto that side road and putt for a while.  There are not many exits out there either but I found one at a little junction called Seven Mile Corner.  After taking the exit I parked the bike heading west on County Route 7, hauled out a map and thinking it was a good time to decide exactly where I was headed.

I was going to the Legendary Buffalo Chip Campground.  Of that there was no doubt but the exact moment of arrival had not been established.  The first concert was Friday night.  I was pretty sure I could get them to let me in on Thursday and maybe even Wednesday but this was Tuesday.  Nothing had gone wrong on the trip so I still had buffer days before I had to be there.  My sister’s boyfriend’s brother, Ray, lives in Box Elder just east of Rapid City.  It’s only 30 miles to Sturgis from Rapid City.  I’d been in contact with Ray and his wife Mimi with e-mail and had discussed the idea of stopping by.  I thought maybe I’d be able to stay overnight and get to The Chip on Wednesday.

While checking the map I realized I was almost into the Badlands.  I had plenty of time.  It wasn’t even noon yet.  I thought maybe I’d just take a putt right through the National Park and ride into Rapid City using Route 44 from the south instead of Interstate 90 from the east.  It sounded like an adventure.  I still didn’t know where I’d stay the night but I was going to have a look at some amazing scenery.  I headed west at my leisurely pace and watched the space traffic on the interstate wiz on by.  Eventually I came upon an intersection with a store that sold gas named Cactus Flats. 

It isn’t really a town.  I was at the only business I could see.  There were more cars and pickup trucks in sight than buildings.  I’ve tried to find out population statistics for the town but none appear to be available.  I learned I was in Jackson County at the time.  The population of the entire county of 1,869 square miles is less than 3,000 people.  There are nearly a million people in Erie County, New York, where I grew up and it’s barely over half the size of Jackson County, South Dakota and I grew up in a rural area.  The entire population of Jackson County is about the same the number of people killed when just 2 buildings came down in New York City.  I guess the area around the badlands is not a preferred place to live.

I topped off the gas tank and went inside to get some road food and beverages.  They had a casino.  It was just a small room with a couple of slot machines, video poker games and the like.  The store was like a small truck stop.  I gathered up a few items and then saw gallons of water.  I bought 2.  Remember back in the beginning when I said you need to be prepared.  Hauling that water may be one of the wisest things I’ve ever done but I certainly wasn’t prepared for what I was about to endure.  I needed a nap but I was excited about seeing this natural wonder.  As I got back in the saddle and headed down the road ready for anything the sun reached towards it’s zenith with intensity I’d never known before.